Hare Krishna

Today was Krishna’s Birthday and it was about time we did something devotional.  Been here 8 months and so far we have avoided the crowds and observed festivities from afar.  It was time to get up close and personal with the locals.  So, along with about a billion other people, we went to the temple.  Advice was to go to ISKCON Temple in East Delhi.  Why?  We didn't ask, we just thought we’d turn up and see what was going on.

As we got within about a mile of the Temple, our car came to a standstill and we found that we were not alone in our quest.  We had chosen to attend India’s largest Krishna Temple, run by the International Society for Krishna Consciousness the Hare Krishna movement that inspires westerners to wear saffron robes, dance along Oxford Street and Bondi Beach and to chant like George Harrison.  About a million other people had made the same choice.

At this point we could see the hill top temple in the distance lit up with a zillion fairy lights and we could hear the chanting relayed over loud speakers.  So, with positive expectations and good will in the air we joined the queue.  After two hours of very orderly queuing and friendly conversation in broken Hinglish with those around us, we arrived at the various security check points, the shoe depository and finally the entrance to the temple.

Here, we were greeted by devotees who printed white patterns on our foreheads with marigolds and everyone was singing and chanting “hare Krishna, hare Krishna, hare Rama, hare Rama".  I’m sure you know the tune.  We just got swept along with the friendly tide.  The temple was so full it was hard to see our way around so we just shuffled through, chanting and singing, past the statues, the fountains, the musicians, the book sellers, the donation boxes and finally through the Prasad (free food) hall.

Another hour later, we re-emerged into the street rejuvenated, inspired and spiritually lifted affirming that we “must come back another time to take a better look around”.  Then we got back in the car and went for out for Chinese.

(Sorry, no photography was allowed so please use imagination with lots of colour and movement)

Namaste

Holi Elephants

We just spent a week in Rajasthan.  This was the week of Pesach and Easter in the place we come from, but in India it is the week of Holi, the festival of colours, celebrated on the day prior to the full moon following the spring equinox.

Kali and Beverly in Conversation

Our first day was spent getting up close and personal with elephants.  We spent an afternoon at an elephant village getting to know an elephant called Kali, whom we fed, conversed with, washed and rode bareback.  It was a special and calming experience to interact so closely with this magnificent creature.  It was lovely to spend time with the elephants and their Mahouts (handlers); who form a lifelong bond with each other. 

We were not too disappointed to find out the following day that the Annual Elephant Festival, which had been the original reason for the timing of our visit to Jaipur, was re-branded as the Annual Holi Festival and there would be no elephants involved.   PETA had managed to stop the parade, which in the past included elephant polo, elephant tug of war and painted elephant beauty contests.  So things can change in India.

Not our photo 

Which brings us to the actual celebration of Holi.  What better way to brighten up a spring day than throwing paint around and getting drunk?  Well, the locals and tourists of a braver disposition had great time.  We were warned that it can get dangerous out on the streets, so we observed from a safe distance and enjoyed the festivities second hand.  We did not get anywhere near close enough to take pictures.  In fact we only heard what was going on, which was LOUD and we certainly saw the aftermath on the people who participated.  

Namaste

Jeff and Beverly in Rajasthan

Not a Typical Week

Rosewater anyone?

On Monday we went to our first Indian wedding.  We were invited by one of Jeff’s workmates, the brother in law of the groom and it was imperative that we attended.  What to wear?  Well, the little black dress would be rather understated, but, not being ready to try a sari, I bought a brightly coloured and beaded pashmina, an armful of bangles and some sparkly dancing shoes.  I was still was seriously under-dressed, but very comfortable.  Jeff wore a coloured shirt and some chinos.   Not too shabby. 

The party, at an outdoor wedding venue that would make the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree feel naked, was event number three of a four day program.  Jeff, myself and Catharina (a friend and colleague from IKEA)  arrived around 9pm to join 300 or so guests, along with whom, we got the opportunity to meet the bride and groom, have our photo taken, contribute cash to the musicians, eat copious amounts of amazing food, dance like crazy people and witness some ceremonial rituals.  We gave the couple some Kosta Boda Swedish crystal, but everyone else gave envelopes; not sure if this was a faux pas, perhaps we will never find out.  

The Bride and Groom

The groom arrived on a white horse heralded by drummers and trumpeters and fireworks were ignited at random intervals.  The bride looked like a queen with henna patterns on her arms and feet. Rose petals and rosewater was sprinkled, garlands of marigolds were exchanged  and there was lots of Hindi chanting and singing.  We, along with most other guests, left at around midnight before the pandit (priest) arrived to perform the actual marriage ceremony, which was due to happen at 3am along with more fireworks, singing and dancing.  It was a lovely evening and everyone seemed just as interested in us as they were the bride and groom.  It was a lot of fun, and on reflection, much more “organised” that I had expected.  

"All it needs is some blue and yellow paint." said Jeff

During the week, whilst Jeff has been discovering the building sites of Delhi (of which there are many) I have been going to the gym, shopping in the markets for food, meeting other expats at book club or coffee mornings and generally keeping myself busy apartment hunting and visiting tourist sights.  The weather is getting much warmer and is now around 25 degrees Celsius, requiring lighter clothing.  I am not yet comfortable enough to wear shorts and tee shirts as the locals are still fully covered wearing jackets, socks and scarves.  I think when the temperature hits 35 degrees, bare arms and ankles will be revealled; let’s wait and see.

Not the synagogue

On Friday night we went to Synagogue, partly out of curiosity and partly because it was time for some memorial prayers.  Jeff turned up wearing his grey Akubra looking very much the part and they invited him to take the service.  Of course he declined and the locals did the honours.   There are only four local Jewish families and we did not have a minion (10 adults) so we couldn’t say kaddish (remembrance prayers) anyway.  It was quite an experience.  We managed to follow the service and joined in as much as we could, singing along familiar prayers to some unfamiliar tunes.  Not sure they will see much of us again, but I’m glad we went.  

A rooftop terrace somewhere in Delhi

On Saturday we had a more Aussie experience at a BBQ at the home of someone we met through the ANZ Association.  This was at a ‘farmhouse’, a free standing house surrounded by garden on the outskirts of Delhi.   It was great and we met some really nice people.  We could have been at home in the back yard with steaks and snags.  Far removed from the Delhi we have been describing in other posts.  

Sunday morning we watched the Swans get beaten by St Kilda.  AFL streamed live on the ipad sitting on our Indian veranda in the sun, so life has reached a certain type of normality here.  Shule, BBQ and footie all in one weekend.  Feels like we never moved.  Just need some familiar faces around and life would be perfect.

Namaste

Getting the Basics Sorted Out

This is not our flat

Things in India are pretty much two steps forward and one step back, but I guess that’s India. It is an amazing place and when it’s good, it’s really good.  When it’s bad it’s horrid.  Yesterday I watched an elephant taking people for rides in my neighbourhood; that was fun.  I have had a cold ever since I arrived and the weather has been quite chilly, but getting warmer now.

We are in short term accommodation (old flat in lovely location) and looking for something more modern.  We’ve seen some lovely places and made some offers but not getting anywhere.  The latest setback is that the flat we have chosen is new and the owner will not sign the lease until it the electricity meter is officially connected.  When will this happen?  Who knows?  Meanwhile we don’t want to wait around and risk him getting a higher offer.  Our furniture arrives next week and we have given notice to leave our current flat so we have to continue looking just in case.  When we finally move I will begin to feel more settled. 

We have a part time cook/cleaner and she has stocked the cupboards with all manner of strange spices.  The food is exciting and we are enjoying it.  We have been exploring the local markets and our new fridge is gradually filling up though I tend to stick to the supermarkets that stock European foods (and Tim tams ;)

Street Vendor (courtesy Josh)

We have seen some wonderful sights, lots of temples, parks, markets, animals and multitudes of all kinds of people.  I am learning to cope with the beggars and the disabled, the chaos on the roads but still struggling with the Bentleys and Jaguars parked next to piles of rotting rubbish.  There are lots of green spaces in Delhi, most with ancient tombs and some with lakes.  We are hoping to live near ‘Deer Park’ which actually has roaming deer along with the more usual roaming dogs, cows, squirrels and monkeys.

Jeff is really enjoying work and life and I’m getting there even it if my pace is a little slower.  I have joined the international ex-pat club and the Aussie one too and been on a couple of outings.  Today I went to a garden fete at the British High Commissioner’s residence and had coffee with some other expats.  We have made friends with our upstairs neighbours who are ‘30 something’ Danes and we have been out with some of the IKEA people too.  People are generally really friendly, locals and expats alike.   

Humayam's Tomb Gardens (courtesy Josh)

Some things in life do not change.  Last Sunday Jeff lost a filling and consequently had to visit a dentist.  The only thing different is the cost.  If you need major dentistry it is definitely affordable, but the people you see in the street here do not seem to be taking advantage of these benefits.  Costs are all relative and we are very fortunate.   Whilst in the dentist’s waiting room I had my first ‘expat’ moment.  A British woman came in with her son and we  recognised each other from an expat coffee Morning. She (Eve) even remembered my name.  Question: In a city of how many millions what are the chances of bumping into someone you know?  Answer: very high if you live in an expat community.  However, it was good and hopefully the first of many different and varied moments that will lead to me feeling at home here.

Next week I am going along to the American Embassy School to join the volunteer group teaching the local street children English.  I hope that this will make me feel a bit more part of things instead of standing on the outside looking in.  It may even lead to some more work.

Namaste

Beginnings

Jeff resumed work at IKEA on January 3^rd but we were all still in holiday mode and keen to engage all our senses.  We visited temples and mosques, rummaged for bargains in street markets, rode in three wheel taxis and cycle rickshaws, walked amongst cows, goats, chickens and pigs and ate the spiciest food we could find.  Jeff joined us after work each evening and on the weekend we celebrated his birthday with a relatively organised food tour.

The assault on my senses was complete with the complex rhythms and sounds blaring through loud speakers, massive throngs in the markets, utterly disfigured beggars, beautiful barefooted children doing acrobatics amid the traffic jams for money, smells of street cooking, piles of rotting rubbish, dazzling jewellery stores and slum dwellers sorting through garbage beside luxury cars.

Our first week included visits to the biggest and brightest temples and mosques in the city.  One, the Bahai Lotus Temple looks strangely like the Sydney Opera house and another, Akshardham, houses an underground theme park style boat ride showcasing the history of India.  At a more local level, I gradually increased my safety zone and explored my neighbourhood, finding lovely parks, monuments and trendy shopping areas.  I also discovered resident cows, negotiated very roughly constructed pavements and got to know some of the locals.

Arrival

Landing in New Delhi on 1^st January 2013 we (Jeff, Josh, Annouska and myself) arrived late in the evening on the coldest day in 44 years.  The air was thick with wood smoke that challenged the atmosphere generated by any Australian bushfire.  “Is the city on fire?” I croaked.

 

After a short car ride, passing countless groups of ragged people crowded around small roadside fires, we were arrived at our Indian home in Jor Bagh, South Delhi; a stoney cold apartment on the first floor of a colonial style building with timber shutters, brass handled doors and white marble floors.

Aided by the warmth supplied by a bank of oil filled heaters we snuggled down and went to sleep.  This was the first night we had spent as a family together under the same roof in many years and the start of a new adventure for Jeff and I.  It was great to be experiencing it all together.

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